Lviv is a city in western Ukraine and a UNESCO world heritage site. Founded in the late Middle Ages by King Danylo and named after his son Lev, Lviv thrived as a major commercial and religious centre, attracting artists, craftsmen, and intellectuals from all over the world. The influences of this multi-ethnic tapestry – Ukrainian, Armenian, German, Jewish, Polish, Italian and Austrian – are felt in the city today in its majestic boulevards, charming squares, and vibrant café culture.

This book is a result of two trips to Ukraine between 2013 and 2014. Lviv was not meant to be my final destination, but once there I could not resist the temptation to linger, to wander its winding cobblestone streets, and to reflect on what makes this place cast such a spell on its visitors.

Before long I realised that although Lviv’s Art Nouveau buildings, Renaissance mansions, and Baroque churches give it a distinctive ambiance, it is the people that make this town special: laughing and praying, rushing on their daily errands, and slowing down to enjoy a drink; welcoming children into the world and seeing young men off to war – life in Lviv is intense and touching.

I hereby share my humble declaration of love for Lviv, a hidden treasure in the heart of Europe.